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Use our BTU calculator to easily work out what size radiator you will need, by entering information about your room in our calculator.
We hold the most popular sizes of white and chrome models in stock, as well as various other finishes depending on the product. Our website indicates the stock models and in our brochure, the stock sizes are listed in bold
You can have a radiator made to order to best fit your design and space requirements, by simply picking from one of the thousands of sizes possible, and choosing a colour finish, we will have your radiators made specifically for you.
Expected delivery time depends on whether you order a stock radiator or a Made-to-Order radiator. Stock radiators can be delivered within 48 – 72 working hours, whereas Made-to-Order models generally take about 3-6 weeks. Small delays can be expected if radiators are being delivered to Scotland and the offshore islands.
Please check the detailed delivery details for each product range to see what we have in stock or how long made-to-order deliveries are for that particular model.
The Radiator Company delivers Radiators and Towel Rails free of charge to UK mainland addresses, where possible we use our own fleet of vehicles or designated specialist couriers.
Orders under £50 will have a nominal £5 charge for postage and packing, and deliveries direct to non-mainland addresses will incur an extra charge which will be confirmed at the time of order.
To establish how much heat your room needs, consult your Gas Safe registered installer or heating engineer. If you want to work it out yourself, use our Heat Output Calculator. All our radiators are shown with their heat outputs, so you can choose a radiator or a number of radiators whose outputs add up to the heat you need.
All outputs listed are calculated in line with the European BSEN442 Testing Standard at Δt50°C (the latest standards for modern boiler systems). To convert Δt50°C to Δt60°C simply multiply x 1.264.
To convert BTUs to Watts, divide your Btu by 3.412
To convert Watts to BTUs, multiply your Watts by 3.412
By altering the size, shape or number of tubes or columns in a radiator you can adjust the output achieved. For example, we have a huge variety of options in our Ancona range that allow huge flexibility in achieving the right output in a limited space.
Depending on the range you can select an alternative model with more columns, single or double rows of elements to increase output within the same space. You may need to add another radiator into the room to make up the shortfall in output required.
Traditional cast iron radiators have been the staple material in period homes and schools since the Victorian age. Their dense heavy structure takes time to reach optimal temperature but remains hot long after the central heating is turned off - perfect for cold drafty period homes.
For more control and a range of traditional and modern designs, steel radiators may be the better choice. Comprised from a lighter less dense material, steel radiators will heat up and cool down quickly providing manageable control.
Aluminium is a highly efficient conductive material that will heat up instantly after the central heating is turned on, giving you total control over your central heating system.
Using models with additional rows of tubes or multiple columns maximises heat output within the same wall space.
For example, our Water Lily design comes in single or double versions, as an example of comparable heat outputs:
Water Lily single: 2010mm x 305mm = 2228 BTUs
Water Lily double: 2010mm x 305mm = 3323 BTUs
A number of our towel rails can be converted to work as dual fuel models. An element and T piece is needed to adapt the towel rail; your installer will need to be aware if you wish to do this in order to adjust pipe centres accordingly. Click here to see our range of elements.
If a towel rail is suitable for dual fuel, it will be noted in the overview found on each product page and is also stated in our brochure.
in modern homes, radiator positioning is less important however please feel free to ask for advice. In traditional homes, most radiators are best placed in the coldest part of the room - usually found under a window. Large spaces are more effectively heated with 2 or more, smaller radiators rather than one large one.
A rule of the thumb often used in the trade is to have one radiator every four metres (about 15 feet) or so in the room. An alternative could be two tall thin radiators either side of the window or a long low radiator along the wall.
Many of our designs are available in horizontal or vertical options, which one you choose depends on the space available and how you can maximize the use of ceiling heights and long low spaces without losing heat output.
We recommend that clearances of at least 50mm above and 100mm below should be left clear so heat from the radiator can be effectively distributed.
The Radiator Company provides this type of radiator from our Ancona range, where we can curve your radiator if the dimensions are within tolerances. Our online specification tool will help you establish what can be achieved in your room. LINK.
For details on how to check if we can curve a radiator to fit your space Click here to view the Ancona Curved radiator page and our specification tool, or alternatively Click here to view our Ancona Curved Specification Instructions
Each product belongs to a Colour Group which contains the range of colours it is available in. Colours for each product are shown on the product page and in our brochure. You can also view our Colour Groups and see which products are available in the colour/finish you like here. LINK TO FINISHES
If you would like a copy of our RAL or Special Finish chart please contact us by using the form on Contact Us or call us on 01342 302250.
Please note that due to the screen resolutions, printing process and manufacturing tolerances the colour (including white) of a finished radiator may vary slightly from the colours represented on the website and brochure and from one colour group to another as well as from our Special Finish & RAL charts. It should also be noted that if the same type of Radiators are ordered and produced at different times they may also differ in finished colour from any previously ordered.
The radiators supplied with painted finishes have a very durable baked-on powder-coated finish that will not fade. They should not be re-painted as this will void the warranty.
Most Cast Iron radiators will need to be painted to protect them from rusting over time and this provides you with the opportunity to select a colour that matches your interior. The Radiator Company can provide your cast Iron radiators painted in a selection of the most popular RAL colours using a robust and long-lasting powder coat paint finish. The powder coat process is a specialist application requiring the radiators to be heated to temperatures in excess of 200 degrees which must be carried out correctly. Using our expert coaters we can guarantee any of our powder-coated cast iron radiators for at least 10 years.
If however, you look to paint them yourself, there are certain requirements you must follow in order to avoid rusting and discolouration - detailed information about this process can be found here. In short, you must apply a protective coat of zinc-based rust inhibitor as a primer, followed by an acrylic-based undercoat and an acrylic-based topcoat - these must not be water or emulsion based paint. For best results, match the undercoat colour to the topcoat colour.
Individual radiators can be drained down when the system is turned off by protecting the floor, closing both valve heads fully.
Loosen the nut connecting the valve tail to the valve and drain the radiator (use a shallow container to collect the water, this water could be very dirty so take care to avoid spillages). Disconnect the valve tail from the valve and remove the radiator.
Decorators caps must be used on a thermostatic TRV head valve to ensure it closes fully, valve tails should be blanked off as an additional precaution.
Decorative covers can be utilised, however, they will significantly reduce the output of a radiator. The amount of heat reduction is dependent on the actual design of the cabinet so we cannot give an exact heat reduction figure.
Thermostatic radiator valves should not be fitted inside covers.
The TRV controls the radiator's temperature by sensing the room air temperature and automatically opening and closing the flow to the radiator to maintain a preset temperature.
A manual valve controls the temperature of the radiator regardless of how warm the room already is.
TRVs are now a requirement as part of Building regulations, check with your installer to make sure you have the correct valves.
The wheelhead valve is the temperature control; the other is called a lockshield valve and is used to balance the radiators in the system so that they all heat up at roughly the same rate. Simply put, the radiator closest to the boiler if left unchecked would heat quicker than the one situated at the other end of the house, so the lockshield valves should be set opened at increasing amounts the further away from the boiler the radiator is.
Even though some of our valves are bi-directional, we recommend that all valves are fitted on the flow pipe rather than the return pipe in order to avoid noises that may naturally occur if they are fitted on the return. For our full range of valves please Click here
Will old twin entry radiator valves fit new radiators?
These older valves are identified by having both pipe connections in one radiator valve at one side of the radiator. If new radiators are being fitted, the valves will also need to be replaced with a pair of single entry.
All radiators and towel rails featured on this website are suitable for indirect/closed systems that comply with 'BS5449, section 1 forced circulation hot water systems.
An indirect system is filled with water that remains in the system and is circulated through the boiler and radiators.
A direct system uses mains water that is continually replaced within the system – this causes an influx of oxygen and bacteria in the water, meaning Stainless Steel or Brass radiators should be used to avoid rusting of the radiators or contamination of the water supply.
Aluminium radiators are installed in exactly the same way as steel or cast iron ones, as with all central heating systems a suitable quality and quantity of inhibitor must be used to avoid corrosion. Mixed metal inhibitors are now easily available from most plumbers’ merchants. Your installer will know all about this.
All of our Cast Iron radiators are compatible with normal central heating systems and have British Standard fittings. On an existing system, you can replace all the radiators or just the ones you want. Confirm with your installer that your pipework and system set-up is suitable for additional radiators.
Yes, however, because there is a lot of mass with cast iron, the radiators have the advantage of staying warm long after the central heating has been turned off. This means that the changes in temperature in a room heated with radiators made of cast iron are gentler than those in a room heated with steel radiators.
Most people tend to run their central heating twice per day, once in the morning and then again at night, if a third short period is added into the middle of these two times then the warmup time is greatly reduced, and the house will remain warm all day and night. When mixing standard radiators with cast iron we find that if the central heating thermostat is sited near a standard radiator the heating may close down before the cast iron radiators sited elsewhere have reached full temperature. The solution is to slow down the standard radiator influencing the thermostat by partially closing the lockshield valve on that radiator (the usually covered end valve opposite the temperature control valve on the radiator used to balance the central heating system).
Heating a home is partly about heating the fabric of the building. Cast iron radiators are again becoming popular amongst heating engineers and architects (particularly for older buildings) as they tend to retain the warmth in the fabric of the building which in turn counteracts dampness and condensation.
All our radiators are compatible with a single pipe system. However, depending on the setup of your one-pipe system, you may need specialist valves. If you are unsure about the compatibility of our valves with your single pipe system, please feel free to contact us.
Pockets of oxygen naturally build up in central heating systems due to the amount of freshwater running through it - this, in turn, causes radiators to become less efficient. Radiators require venting to alleviate the build-up of air, which in most cases is a manual process.
If you already own a radiator that is cold at the top and hot at the bottom, it is likely that your radiator needs venting (bleeding).
How to Vent/Bleed your radiator:
-Take care to protect decorated surfaces with a cloth or small bowl to catch the water prior to opening the air vent.
- Venting is best carried out when the system is cold, to do so, simply turn off the heating system and slightly open the air vent (some radiators will require a radiator vent key, others may need a small screwdriver) until water is noted at the air vent (this means all air has been purged from the radiator)
- Gently close the vent and then switch the system back on.
If the radiators need venting frequently, there may be a fault with the system and a heating engineer should be called.
This indicates that the radiator may be receiving an insufficient flow of water; typically, large radiators need a higher water flow than small radiators. There may be several reasons for this, such as incorrect balancing, incorrect pipe size or an under-performing or under-sized pump, there may also simply be a blockage in the radiator or there could be pockets of oxygen that need venting.
A heating engineer should be called to carry out further investigations.
The Radiator Company radiators can be installed by any competent plumber/installer (electrician for electric models) who is preferably Gas Safe registered.
What should I use to secure the radiator to the wall?
Radiators are heavy items and should be securely fastened to the wall. Specific care should be taken to identify the construction of the wall and use the appropriate fasteners to secure the radiator brackets. All Radiator Company radiators are supplied with the correct brackets and detailed instructions, which are also available online.
For our Ancona range, we offer brackets for Stud Walls for when the standard brackets aren't suitable for your wall type.
Firstly the heating system needs to be switched off, and the radiator needs to be drained.
- Remove the current valve (if applicable) by loosening the connecting and securing nuts.
- Wrap at least five turns of PTFE tape around the threaded tails of the new valves and screw them into the radiator and pipework.
Make sure the PTFE tape stays on the thread rather than just running along it as you tighten. If it does run, undo the valve and roughen the thread slightly with a hacksaw blade then re-tape the thread. (Some of our valves have parallel threads which means that they never tighten against a stop like traditional valves so more PTFE than usual is required we recommend the use of gas type PTFE which is much thicker than the standard.)
- Tighten the connecting and securing nuts to secure the valve.
If you are also replacing the lockshield repeat the above steps.
We endeavour to ensure all pipe centres are correct, however, manufacturing tolerances must be considered; therefore we strongly recommend that pipework is not installed or altered until your new radiator or towel rail is delivered.
The Radiator Company will not accept any responsibility for claims resulting from incorrect pipe centres.
Yes, but on large cast-iron radiators (over 3500 watts) it can prove problematic on balancing the central heating system. If in doubt, ask your plumber/installer.